More wine please!!! Mendoza & San Rafael

The overnight bus to Mendoza was not a bad ride, as the temperature was much better and we had the “high class” cama suites (the seats recline 180° and you are served champagne after dinner). When we got to Mendoza and rented the next car, we started round two of wine tours. We only had time for one vineyard in Mendoza, but it was worth it. We went to Familia Zuccardi and had an amazing private tour from an American guy who is living down in Mendoza. After the tour, starving, we began a difficult search for food. It seems that in parts of the country, restaurants don’t serve food at all between dinner and lunch. Since dinner doesn’t start until 8:00, it was hard to find something to eat in the late afternoon/early evening. Once we found a sandwich, we headed towards San Rafael, the first easy drive down a straight highway of the trip.

In San Rafael, we checked into the Hotel San Martín, a nice change from some chilly hostels. We had a delicious dinner in the hotel’s restaurant of chicken and butternut squash stuffed crepes. The next morning, Scott, Bree and Steve got up early and went to Las Leñas to snowboard in the Andes. I bummed around San Rafael, getting coffee in a café, doing a little shopping, and getting a massage at the hotel spa. When everyone returned from snowboarding, we cleaned up and went to a parilla for a nice steak dinner. The next day, on our way out of town, we stopped by a couple of vineyards in the San Rafael area, including Bianchi. We drove back to Mendoza and got on a bus to BA, sad that this leg of our adventure was over.

Parapente!

The next morning, we left Cafayate and drove back to Tucumán to catch our next overnight bus. We had planned, last minute, a paragliding expedition for that afternoon. However, we lost phone contact with the paragliding guide en route to the hill and didn’t know exactly where to meet him. We decided to just drive up the hill, where all the paragliding takes place, and find somewhere along the way. We stopped at the first sign for parapente that we saw. After driving down a tiny little path, we found ourselves in a clearing where tons of paragliders were hanging out and taking off. (In case you don’t know what paragliding is, it is where you walk off the side of a hill with a giant sail attached to you, and you fly. Beginners, of course, are attached to a professional). The paragliders were a unique group, decked out in dreadlocks and getting a huge high from running off the side of the mountain. They told us they could take us and we just had to wait a few minutes until someone was able to go. A few minutes turned into a few hours and they basically forgot about us until we said something. Bree was the first to go, followed by me. Surprisingly, paragliding was not scary at all. When in the air, it hardly felt like I was moving. It was very tranquil and relaxing. Due to the conditions, we couldn’t land in the same place we took off from, so we had to land at the bottom of the hill in a random lemon grove. When I landed, I found Bree waiting down there. We then had to wait for a ride to come to take us and the rest of the people who landed in the grove back up to the top of the hill. The paragliders were in no rush and were just hanging out in this grove, listening to music, smoking cigarettes and chatting. Bree and I started to get a little worried about how long it was taking and realizing that we had no way of contacting the guys and really had no clue who these paragliders were. Finally, a car came to get us, we jammed in the back seat, and drove back up to the top of the hill to find our very worried boyfriends, worried because it had been hours since they had seen us and they had no contact information for the people we jumped off the hill with. It all worked out, except that because it took so long that Scott & Steve couldn’t go- but it’s okay because we think they would have thought it was boring anyways J

Cafayate...Mmmm Wine

The next day, we drove a little south to Cafayate, Salta. This town produces some of Argentina’s best wines because the climate is the same almost every day of the year. We stayed at the Rusty-K Hostal, which had the cutest little outdoor area with vines all over the top of the patio. We rented bicycles and started off on our wine tour. We decided to head to the furthest away vineyard first, one that was very highly rated in all the tour books. It didn’t look that far on a map, but 5K feels really far when it is uphill on a dirt road the entire way and your bike gears don’t work! When we finally made it to Finca de las nubes, we realized it was well work the trek. The vineyard sat up above town and had an incredible view of the mountains, vines, and the city. We had our own personal tour and tasting, Steve and I translating for Scott and Bree. This turned out to be one of our favorite vineyards, probably because worked so hard to get there! We rode our bike to a few other vineyards in the area, and then stopped in town for the famous wine sorbet at Miranda’s. They have cabernet and torrontés flavored sorbets….delicious and refreshing! That night, we were all exhausted from a long and hard day of wine tasting, so the guys went and bought empanadas to bring back to the hostel for dinner.

Purmamarca, Jujuy- highlight of the trip!

We drove from Salta to Purmamarca, Jujuy. The drives themselves in the northern regions are incredible. We drove on these tiny, winding roads through the mountains. Cows were grazing on the side of the roads and it felt very surreal. As we got closer to Purmamarca, the rocks in the mountains started changing colors- oranges, reds, greys, greens. When we got to Purmamarca, we couldn’t get over the incredible beauty. This small town was carved out of the vibrant rock. It reminded me of Pueblo Indian villages you would see in the southern US or Mexico. We loved our hostal because our shared room had a balcony that looked out onto the Cerro de siete colores. We did a short hike that took us behind town, through the mountains and up to the cerro. We sat on a hill, looking at all the beautiful colors, and drank a mate. Another highlight of Purmamarca was the artesan fair. Every day, vendors came to the town square and set up their booths selling all sorts of regional goods- llama and alpaca wool sweaters, socks, scarves, gloves, mate gourds, vibrantly colored textiles, weavings, woodwork, just to begin. We were able to entertain ourselves all afternoon just looking at all the interesting objects for sale. The people are beautiful as well- Purmamarca was the first place I had been to in Argentina where I really felt like I was in a whole different world, in Latin America. The indigenous traditions are still very much alive here.
That evening, after a delicious regional meal of llama steak, locro (a regional stew), pollo picante, empanadas, tamales, we went and watched some live music in a couple bars. The first group we saw played very traditional music- guitar and some regional flutes. We then saw a more modern group, which also sang, and played some music where people from the crowd got up and performed a dance that must be popular throughout the entire country.
The next day, we drove out to the Salinas Grandes, Salt mines. It’s a valley between the mountains, where a lake used to be. The lake dried up and left a crust of salt. It’s flat and white for as far as you can see, and it looks more like snow or sand than salt. The contrast of the white salt against the bright blue sky was amazing, and made for some stunning pictures. We had a delicious picnic, even using salt from the ground for our sandwiches, and then played around with our cameras for a while.

Salta...First stop in the Northwest

This first bus ride was the worst of the trip. It was the longest, about 24 hours, and we also had to get the lowest class tickets. The heat was broken, so it was either boiling hot or freezing cold. The food was horrible as were the movies they showed. But, we made it to Tucumán alive.
When we got off the bus in Tucumán, at about 7 pm, we went to go pick up our rental car, only to find out that the road we were planning to take to Cafayate was closed to do snow and ice, which changed our plans completely. We had dinner at an amazing empanada place as we figured out a new plan of attack. We decided to find a hostal in Salta and head there that night, to at least get some driving out of the way. One thing we learned, quickly, is that it takes about an hour or more longer to drive anywhere than what any local person tells you! We arrived in Salta at about 2 am, and checked into the worst hostal of the trip, Corre Caminos. The hostal was freezing, had no heat, and did not meet our cleanliness standards. In the morning, there wasn’t enough hot water for all of us to shower, so I got an ice cold rinse. We were so glad to leave that place!We spent the afternoon walking around Salta, checking out some gorgeous cathedrals and colonial architecture. We went to a very interesting museum where we saw some of the best-preserved mummies in the world. The mummies were children that the Inca people sacrificed. They still had their hair, clothes, everything intact.

The Big Trip with Scott & Bree...Starting at Iguazú Falls

The big moment came…we couldn’t believe it was already here. The trip with Scott & Bree was something we had most looked forward to since the beginning, but we also saw it as being the end of a great time down here in Argentina. We had been planning the trip for so long and we so excited that it was actually here. We only had about a week and a half to travel, and Argentina is such a large and diverse country, it was somewhat challenging to decide what we wanted to see and do in such a limited amount of time. We decided to start in Iguazú Falls, travel to the northwestern regions of Salta and Jujuy, rent a car, and spend a few days driving around that area, and then heading south to Mendoza and San Rafael for vineyards and snowboarding. We then would head back to BA for a couple of days in the city. Since we did so much, I'll divide the trip up into several blog posts, so you guys can read parts at a time!

About two hours after Scott & Bree arrived to BA, we dragged them onto another flight to Puerto Iguazú, which is in the northeast of Argentina. The highlight here is Iguazú Falls, one of the largest in the world stretching 1.6 miles along the border of Argentina and Brazil, surrounded by tropical forests. Well, the day and a half we were there, it was anything but tropical. All last week when we had looked at weather forecasts, the temperature for Igauzú was in the 80s and sunny. When we were there, it was about 50 and cloudy. But, we did not let the weather put a damper on our fun! We checked into Hostal Bambu, had a few cervezas at the bar, and went out for appetizers and dinner in town.
The first thing we did when we got to the park the next morning was the boat and truck tour. Gabriel, the guy that worked at the hostal, told us we had to do the combination tour because it was incredible and definitely worth the extra money. Turns out, it wasn’t, but we still had a good time. We got on a big truck that took us on a 5 minute ride through the jungle, as a guide talked about different species of trees and wildlife, which we didn’t see. One interesting thing that we did learn was that the palm trees that produce the delicious hearts of palm are becoming endangered, as it takes one whole tree to produce just one small can of hearts of palm. They love them in Argentina. While the truck ride was unexciting, the boat ride itself was a great time, minus the freezing temperature. It took us down the river and then for an up close and personal look at the falls. It felt like we were going right up to the falls, as we were completely drenched. When we saw other boats go up, we realized that we just barely got to the edge of the spray. The falls were incredible. Every view gets more and more beautiful and you feel like each picture you take is better than the last. We hiked the upper and lower circuits, getting to see the falls from below and above. The Garganta del Diablo is the highlight. It’s a horseshoe shaped fall that has more power than any of the other falls. It was amazing. Lunch at the park was an adventure because we were attacked by coatis, these annoying, raccoon-like animals that had no fear of humans and would do anything to get their paws on your sandwich, including jump on the table and grab it right out of your hands. Not much appetite after seeing that! After a full day at the park, we headed back to town, starving, for a nice dinner. Afterwards, we got on the first overnight bus of the trip and started out for Tucumán.

Another Stamp on the Passport- Uruguay!

This past weekend, Steve and I crossed the frontera and added one more stamp to our passports! woo! We took the ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia, Uruguay. It was actually a very organized system…you go through both Argentine and Uruguayan customs before even getting on the ferry. Because our initial plans of renting a car in B.A. and driving to Uruguay changed (as you can’t take a rental car across the border!) we bought our tickets somewhat last minute and ended up having to be first class…boo hoo! hehe On the way there, we were on the fast boat, and it only took about an hour. We sat next to a very interesting man from the U.S. and his Argentine son. Steve chatted with them the whole time, and I took a nap! When we got to Colonia, we picked up our rental car (which was an upgrade from what we booked because they gave our car away!) and headed towards the estancia, La Sirena which is near the town of Mercedes. The drive was absolutely beautiful…farm after farm with cows grazing in bright green field under blue skies. They looked like the happiest cows in the world, because unlike many in the U.S. they have so much space! The weather Saturday was perfect, and we really enjoyed the drive.

We arrived to La Sirena Saturday afternoon, just in time for the asado (barbecue). An estancia is basically a cattle ranch. Rural tourism is becoming popular in Uruguay and Argentina, and people who own these ranches are opening up their homes and inviting tourists in to live the life of a gaucho. The owners of La Sirena were an older couple, Rodney and Lucía. As it’s the off-season, there was only one other tourist couple there, from Australia. Rodney and Lucía were so welcoming- it felt like we were staying with family. It was apparent that they love what they do and where they live, and were full of stories to share from their 30 years of having people stay on their farms. They also were very knowledgeable about the history of their country, and were quite proud to share it with us- turns out their estancia dates back to the founding of Uruguay. The house itself is about 200 years old, and one of the first owners of the land and the house was Bernardino Rivadavia, the first president of Argentina.

Back to the food I mentioned earlier- the asado. Argentines and Uruguayans alike love their beef and have a very particular way of preparing it. They use these huge grills, parillas, that are over open flames. The one in Uruguay actually has a basket above the grill rack where you burn the wood. The ashes fall down under the grill and you can then spread them out, however you need, to control the heat. The first part of the asado is usually some sausages- morcilla (blood sausage- sounds gross but is delicious), chorizo, and other various parts of the cow, such as chinchulin (intestine). I was brave and tasted the chinchulin and found it to be as chewy and unappetizing as it sounds- I won’t be ordering it at a restaurant any time soon, but am glad that I tried it! After those initial appetizers they serve the main portions. At the estancia, we had chicken as well as beef. They also served delicious potatoes that were prepared right on the parilla as well as an ensalada mixta (typical salad served with asados that has lettuce, tomatoes and onions). There was plenty of wine to share and they even brought out a cake. Every meal at the estancia was delicious and they definitely fattened us up!

After lunch, we got to partake in some real gaucho activities. They had some men coming to look at some of the cattle before purchasing it. Rodney and Lucía are in the business of selling calves. They had to ride horses into the fields to bring in all the cattle. Once they brought it into a corral, they had to separate it into two groups- the ones to be sold and those that would stay. They do this just by getting in the corral with the cattle and chasing them around- quite interesting and a little funny to see! We got to partake- my job was to guard a corner to make sure none escaped. I have never been so close to so many cows- it made me a little nervous at times!

After the men came and looked at the cattle, Steve and I were able to go on a little horseback ride before it got dark. It was really cold, but we wanted to fit one in because we knew it was going to rain the next day. That night and Sunday were both freezing, and the estancia (or most places down here) didn’t have the central heat that we have in the U.S. We all had to go sit by a fire in this tiny room just to keep warm. By the fire, we ate dinner and then passed a guitar around and sang songs lol. Rodney then got out his collection of Uruguayan liquors and was very excited to let us all sample them.

Sunday it poured all day. Steve and I left the estancia and drove back to Colonia. We arrived after dark, and after searching the city for a restaurant we wanted to try but then couldn’t find, we ended up getting wine, pizza and a chivito (sandwich with steak, bacon, ham, hearts of palm, lettuce, tomato, etc.) at a cute little place. Sunday morning we got up and went out into the rain to explore Colonia. Colonia was one of the first towns in Uruguay, founded by the Portuguese in 1630. It’s very historical and the cobble-stone streets and colorful buildings make you feel like you are back in time. Despite the cold and rain we had a great day exploring, shopping and eating, before heading back to Buenos Aires on the night ferry.

It was a great trip and I was very impressed with Uruguay- from the little bit that we saw, it is a beautiful country, full of history, culture and welcoming people.